Salinity Refractometer

By · Sunday, June 21st, 2009

Salinity Refractometer

Many new fans were confused and in trouble with the water chemistry. It is one of the most important things for the right to maintain a Aquarium. In saltwater article I will explain what to measure, come in the correct order the check. Â

Salinity. Must be the More importantly, for the simple reason without die. everything must point to a salinity of 1.025. I would recommend using a Refractometer. I would try to avoid using a hydrometer rocker, these are inaccurate. The refractometer will give really accurate results and to compensate the reading with the temperature of the water, one that are really easy to use. They can be a bit expensive but worth every penny.

Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Check these in order. You really only need to check for ammonia and nitrite in a newly established aquarium. These will go to zero after the nitrogen cycle. Then only need to check Nitrate. Nitrate is the end product of Thea nitrogen cycle. Nitrates is recommended thata need to be kept below 0.5 ppm, although many inhabitants of reefs more. tolerate a little more easy to maintain low nitrates is keeping up with routine water changes. It is not unusual to be able running a mature aquarium with zero nitrates.

Phosphates. If you have high phosphates live corals die. Small amounts are bya tolerate most corals. This is one of the easiest unwanted chemicals disposal. All that is needed is a product like this can Rowaphos. be placed in a filter sock and hung it in the direct flow in your tank or sump. Although expensive, is very effective. This medium willa absorb phosphates, until Thena full. need to replace. The controls for phosphates should be done with other routine water monitoring.

Magnesium, alkalinity and calcium. I put together because they must be verified in this order, since they affect each other, and if it has not been tested and corrected in order that you'd cause major problems.

Magnesium helps maintain a balance of alkalinity and calcium, without it would be very difficult to maintain the alkalinity and calcium at the required level. You should aim to maintain magnesium between 1300 and 1500ppm. Many objective Hobbyist about 1350ppm, this is the amount found in natural seawater.

Carbonate alkalinity hardness ora should be maintained between 7dKH and 10dKH. I would recommend at least 8 target however. This can be increased by using a tampon.

Calcium is needed to help hard corals build their skeletons, you should aim 400ppm forums. Without this its hard corals can not create a skeleton, as we need calcium to give bones and teeth. The same applies to the hard corals and many invertebrates in our Reef aquariums. Additives can be used to increase calcium.

PH. Many hobbyists recommend checking this, but I hear that fans manya no. Changes in pH and is affected by constant light, oxygen, magnesium, alkalinity and calcium, and what the results may be different each time. If you will check pH, available at the same time each day to obtain consistent results. all other parameters can consulted in the order above pH leaving until the end.

A word about dosage. If the parameters are out and the need adjustment, I recommend adding panic. additives in the order listed in this article, a very slowly. Do not hurry, read the instructions in their additives. If you go too far just to do a water change and verification. If it still remains high conducting additional water changes. Remember that corals, fish and invertebrates are sensitive animals and intense rapid changes will destroy.

There are many other parameters that can be checked and dosed, but these can get very confusing and difficult to check for. I will continue these Articles on my blog covering more of these parameters including Strontium, Iodine, Iodide and any other I am able to research.
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AquaLab: Ex 03-3 testing salinity and specific gravity with hydrometer and refractometer

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