Digital Thermometer Fish

By · Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

Digital Thermometer Fish
I'm thinking of getting a salt water tank 29 liters, what I need???

I'm thinking of getting a tank that is 29 liters, and includes an Instant Ocean Sea Salt, a hydrometer, Visi-Therm underwater aquarium heater, plus add-ons a digital thermometer, and Bio-Marine conditioning film of water, and a full, 3-stage BIO-wheel filtration and high-quality fluorescent lighting is gathered inside the chapel. I'm not sure what it most needs, yet I decide if I want to live rock and sand on it, and what other decoration. I Want 2 clown fish in the tank, a cleaner shrimp, crabs, snails, I'm not sure what else is going to be compatible with them, too, how do I start my aquarium, and how can I change the water in the tank.

Recommend strongly before going too far in planning, to do research on different types of tanks (fish only, that is the easiest and cheaper, fish only with live rock, which give added biological filtration, and reef, which is the real marine group with corals, anemones, shrimp, etc., that may be the most difficult and is definitely the type most expessive). That does not mean you can not start with a fish-only, then add other elements to the same tank that has some experience and wants to discuss various agencies. A 29 is an acceptable size for a tank, but you may find something limiting their options in cattle. I started with a 29, and added a 55 in 6 months. The largest of a tank you can use the better – the saltwater fish tend to be larger and more territorial and aggressive than traditional freshwater "community" and more like the cichlid fish in their behavior, so some planning is necessary as you can keep it together. If you need to get support for the tank, try to get solid wood. The particle positions can not be sustained if wet and tail separated, and the iron and metal brackets corrode if one of them gets the salt (or, you can get a basic metal, just use a flannel backed cloth under the tank to protect the position of splashing water). The following is a kind of checklist that I have produced from the previous responses a similar question: FILTER: You want to get one that is properly sized (filters in at least 5 times to 10 times the tank volume per hour – check the number of gallons per hour). There are many options, you need really depends on budget, which is trying to maintain, and personal preference. I think the best kind of be a refugium or wet / dry trickle filter. Next best would be a carbon filter, followed by a biowheel, or a standard hang-on-tank with mass media (like a AquaClear with the block of foam). Unless you are using a substrate of fine sand or oolite, you can use a filter plate to complete the filtration, but I would feeding suggest a reversible powerhead to blow water through the substrate (prevents material from accumulating within the filter and clogging it). head (S): To provide better water circulation in hard to reach places. This also helps to distribute the dissolved oxygen in the bottom of the tank. Be at least 29, two or more for a bigger tank. HEATERS: For a saltwater tank 30 gallons or larger, I suggest you get 2 and put one on each end. This will provide further heating, and the tank has a backup if a heater gives out. Figure the correct size of 5 watts per gallon (for a single heater) divided by 2 (if used for 2 heaters). If you need to heat the water more than 10 degrees above room temperature, go one size higher power. With the 29, you could do go with 1 or 2 heaters. LIGHTING: If you want nothing more than fish, you can use the standard lighting and hood for your tank. Is might want to update the lights 10,000 K tube or a 50/50 actinic to produce a more "marine" look. If you're going to try to corals, anemones, etc. go with a compact fluorescent, metal halide, T-5, or the combined system – These provide more intense light that these agencies need for photosynthesis. SUBSTRATE – You want something made of aragonite to help keep the pH change, I like the smaller shell material Carib-Sea puts out – you do not have to be sand live, either. Some folks like crushed coral, but the particle size is larger than I like, and tends to have a lot of dust that never clarified by complete. Another very fine grained material is oolitic aragonite (looks like small white balls) and aragonite sand. Here's an idea of the available materials: While it is possible to maintain a marine aquarium tank, gravel or non-scheduled substrate, the aragonite will keep the pH falls below 7.8 (it is 8.2-8.4) and this can make the difference in the survival of your fish / organisms. Mix salt: If only keeping fish, you can go with a cheaper brands of synthetic sea salt. If notice any invertebrates (shrimp, snails, crabs, coral, anemones, etc.), switch to a better combination of quality before adding them. These cost a bit most, but not necessary the use of additives in trace elements that need either. HYDROMETER: Measures the amount of salt that dissolves in water. There are two types can be obtained, one of glass that floats on the surface (more accurate, but easily broken) and a plastic container with a needle that rises and falls as the amount of salt changes (less necessary, the bubbles corresponding to the needle gives false readings). For fish only, you want to read the specific gravity from 1.020 to 1.026. If you are keeping investing, you want it to be 1.024 to 1.026. Water Testing Kit: minimum pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. CLEANING SUPPLIES: gloves to the elbow, the empty land, 5-gallon bucket, large plastic container and head of the salt mixture (which is done long before the water changes, I use a plastic trash can be maintained only for this), algae scraper, razor blades (for Coraline algae and diatoms that like to attach to the glass). water conditioner: to remove chlorine or chloramine from your tap water (unless you plan to use a reverse osmosis filter or buy RO water, which is preferred for a reef tank). The following are optional, but recommended strongly: protein SKIMMER: This removes organic materials and small dissloved normally contribute to the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the aquarium. Not 100% necessary for aquariums, but useful if you have invested to maintain water quality by removing organic materials that are nutrients for algae. GLASS COVER: This reduces evaporation and keeps the fish inside the tank (some are bridges), but with a system of metal halide lighting, may overheat your tank. LIVE ROCK: This gives the tank a more natural appearance, provides hiding places for fish and inverts, and increases the biological filtration. Not to mention, you get all kinds of cool creatures that hitchhike into your tank (shrimp, snails, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sea stars, etc.). CHILLER: If you use the lighting metal halide or water temperature regularly gets above the 85th (for corals or anemones, fish can take a little more heat) can need to invest in a refrigerator to keep the tank cold. The water temperature should run 76-80 of. There may be other items you may need, such as kalkwasser to increase the pH if you can not get to 8.2, but will not know these until you get the tank up and running, and test your water. You can decide you want to use an ultraviolet sterilizer, but in my opinion, these are unnecessary. Not necessarily to kill all parasites and pathogens, and which only concern for free floating algae, not those who joined his glass, rock, or substrate. Bulbs also need to be replaced yearly. Instead of paying the high price of one of these, you do better buy a kit of low installation cost of 10 gallons and a heater and use these as a quarantine tank. Before you go out and buy all this, I would suggest a reading to see what you're getting to keep salt water. I did research for almost 2 years before setting up my first tank, and I was about 20 years experience a freshwater aquarium. Running on an installation of salt water does not usually successful, and equipment and the fish are a little too expensive to find in a few weeks you have something to not suitable for what you want for your tank. I also recommend a good reference book for research. Any of these would be a good one to start with: The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-52-1 or The Conscientious Marine aquarist by Robert M. Fenner. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-02-5 Some sites web you can refer to more information on maintaining saltwater are: http://www.peteducation . CLS com / index.cfm? = 16 As far as fish, species that are good to begin with will depend largely on their interests. Although are resistant, I recommend against damels, mostly because of their aggressivness – add one of these, and they will terrorize the fish they seek to introduce later. The exception I would do here is green Chromis Reef (Pacific). Also, keep in mind if you are adding corals, anemones, snails, shrimp, hermit crabs, the stars, or others in the future, you may want to continue with reef fish up from the beginning. You want to add the smallest and peaceful first kind, and this will reduce the aggression in the tank. It is a general guideline should not mix the fish of the same color or body shape, or species of the same families to prevent any of the fish to see another as a potential rival. There are some species that can remain in school or in matched pairs, but this is the exception not the rule. I prefer the less aggressive species semifinals and peaceful myself, but your preferences may be different. Some of the ones I recommend as starters are Chromis, a pair of ocellaris clown (the "Nemo" fish – both work because the child will become a dominant female, and the other a boy), bream (If you have a good person in your saltwater fish store should be able to choose a male and female for you), longnose hawkfish, bass Canary jawfish, clown goby, scissortail gobies, and firefish. That is much more than they should maintain a 29 as adults, so you need to

Freshwater aquarium 35 Gallon Severum, Paradise Clown fish

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